|Nitro 4.56 gears and a Harrop elocker for CJ's 2015 Tacoma front 8" clam|
|(82 BIG pics loading)|
|AUGUST 13 2017|
| The truck has a basic lift setup... Bilstein 6112s up front and 5160s rear with Dakar leafs. FN 17x8 wheels. |
Nitto Terra Grapper G2 33 inch tires (upgrading to 34 inch soon).
CJ will be doing the hands-on install of the TrueTrac and 4.56 gears to the rear.
| Future plans include a trail in Michigan as well as a long road trip to Utah (Moab, of course). |
I recommended the Gold Bar Rim trail for the scenic cliff lunch spot overlook.......
and Moab Rim trail for the infamous "Z Turn"....and thinking about it,
maybe a good trail guide, one that knows the best route up the
rocky stairstep shelving at the Z is the advisable thing to do..
A trail guide by the name of Dan Mick.
|Australian Elocker as received directly from overseas. It only took 8~10 days to get to my shop.|
|Items are organized on the bench. On the left is the elocker then the Nitro 456 8" gears with the Nitro master kit, and finally the 8" clam from CJ.|
|This model has the electro-magnetic assembly not pre-installed.|
|Disassembly starts by removing the ten 14mm bolts from the lid.|
|Tap tap all the way around with a brass punch and the lid is loose.|
|The lid.....Let's get that stub axle out right now.|
|Easy access to push the stub axle out from the inside.|
|A chisel or large screwdriver tapped in between will push the axle stub out with very little trouble.|
|The circular clip is undamaged.|
| A high speed wire brush was used to get the majority of the rtv of the sealing surface. A harborFreight brush took care of the rest. |
A clean surface is very important with all the trial fitting that will be happening.
| It was a tight fitting ring gear. The lead filled plastic hammer was able to seat it about 30% of the way.|
I must have a good eye because the 10 bolts fit perfectly with no mis-alignment at all.
|The 2 pieces of wood were able to push the ring on the remaining 70%.|
|86 ft/lb per the manual and blue loctite.|
|With the ring gear already on, now is a good time to piece together the electromagnet assembly. The 3 pins first....|
|...then the ramping plate..|
|...then the bearing thrust washer...|
|...then the bearing race...|
|...and finally, the bearing spacer which is a light press fit.|
|Assembled with the Koyo bearings pressed on.|
|Now onto the pinion end. Remove the pinion nut and flange.|
|Press the old pinion out.|
|Attempt to tap the difficult inner race in with the limited swing of a low profile hammer...sometimes it works and sometimes not.|
|....Or use other means and this one worked.|
|The outer race is easy.|
|BAM!! Knock it in and you're done.|
|And the inner race is fully in....fully seated.|
|.077" is what I choose for the starter shim.|
|And, before I get too far along, better grind the 3 spots to clear the electromagnet.|
|Pinion can be mounted now. No crush sleeve yet. Just tighten the pinion nut enough to offer some pinion bearing preload.|
| "click click click" I can hear the electromagnet tab clicking between the stops when I turn the pinion back and forth.|
But I also note no backlash at all when I jiggle the ring back and forth. That means the race at the bottom
of the bowl needs a thicker washer plate.
|This bad boy right here needs the thicker washer.|
|Again, using old bearing parts to tap the race and washerplate out at the same time.|
|Tap tap tap and it's out. No bending or distortion of the washerplate.|
|Thick factory washerplates on the bottom and the aftermarket shims supplied in the Nitro kit above.|
|This type of hammer is kinda cool and a good choice for the clams. In the pic, I can use the top of the hammer to pound in the race.|
|Another tool I made.....made from an old bent Moser axle. This one locks the sidegear in solid and allows for a paint check.|
| That tool allows the clam to be secured to the fixture as shown with 2 c-clamps. I then offer resistance on the pinion flange with a rag and |
turn the other sidegear with a cheater bar. That offers enough resistance where the yellow paint makes an excellent inpression.
| Backlash check. The axle stub was 30 spline so just a light jiggle back and forth means I can measure the backlash. No real pressure|
on the little teeth so no tooth damage. Backlash checked in at .009" but good enough for a paint check.
| Drive side. NICE. Depth is beautiful. A little to the heel but tightening up the BL might help there. |
But what is really important is the depth parameter which is spot on.
|Coast....thing of beauty.|
| A "fine tuning". Removed .004 from the bowl side(from .0883" to .0843") which has 2 effects....|
reduces the backlash and lightens up on the carrier bearing preload. Since the preload was too strong anyways it will
work out well for both parameters with this 1 washer plate change.
|The DRIVE side of the pinion.....NICE...in an ideal spot.|
|Time now to put the new crush sleeve in(1.475"). It will take over 1 complete turn to crush it down into the target zone based on .060" between threads.|
|The seal supplied with this Nitro kit. It has just been lubed up with gear oil.|
|Genuine OEM seals are extra insurance against pinion leaks.|
|BH6832E....nice to see the transition to quality seals ;) Not all Nitro kits have them yet but I see the trend.|
|360 degree support to drive the seal home.|
|Now it has been driven down level with the ridge.|
|This custom seal driver will recess it .180" below the rim. The FSM specs it at .165~.189".|
|Bam!! Done. No doubt about it being evenly down all 360 degrees around.....no seal distortion.|
|Seal surface is in nice shape. A very small ridge and not deep at all.|
| Just now sanded it with #1500 wet/dry sandpaper and not much change. |
Even if it doesn't need it, it should be done anyways.
|Aluminum based antiseize is a good idea.|
| A nice 11 inch/pounds of pinion bearing preload. Very smooth and repeatable. If any debri falls in the bearings |
or there's not enough gear lube on them then readings will be all over the board.
|DING! and this end is now done.|
|The last washer change to .0843"reduced the backlash to .007" and lightened up the CBPL into a good range(6 in/lb) so now the cover can go on.|
|00295-00103 can be had on Ebay.com|
|The lid is tapped down, the FIPG is gooshing out, and the 10 lid bolts are threaded in...|
|51 ft/lb final FSM recommended torque in a cross pattern.|
|Measuring right at 17 in/lb of total preload. 11 of that is the pinion bearings so that leaves 6 for the carrier bearings.|
|Basically, it's complete except for a few minor items.|
|Tapped in the Nitro driver side seal flush.|
|Greased up the clip and drove the axle stub on the other side home.|
|Resistance check with an old Micronta analog meter from the 80's.|
| Needle was properly zero'd beforehand and measuring 3.9 ohms. Ohm's Law says 4 ohms at 12 volts is only 3 amps....|
or 4 ohms at a higher 16 volts is still only 4 amps current draw.
| Notes taken during this install. Regearing an 8" clam and adding a Harrop elocker is not as easy as I might make it look. |
Best to send it to me ;)