Mike is local to me so he tore into his truck, removed the rear diff, and showed up at my shop....

....the plan is to use a 529 Yukon and an Aussie Locker, all new bearings, and a solid collar.

Step one is to remove the bearing caps...

I'll work on the case last and get the pinion end ready to go.

Even though the nut was well-staked, the electric impact took it off in about 1 second. This tool has paid for itself many times over.

I have a soft chisel and this does not damage the race while it's being tapped in.

edit---Best to stay away from all punches/chisels... use an old race to evenly "pat down" the new race. Using a punch could result in "oscillating" pinion preload measurements with the torque wrench. 1-8-2011 ZUK

The larger inner race is is a little trickier to get it tapped in straight but doable.

edit---Best to stay away from all punches/chisels... use an old race to evenly "pat down" the new race. Using a punch could result in "oscillating" pinion preload measurements with the torque wrench. 1-8-2011 ZUK

I'm skipping a few steps here but I loaded up the pinion with a .082" pinion depth shim. I pressed the inner pinion bearing on then slipped the solid collar on with .066" worth of shims. I then mounted the pinion in the case only to find out that it was loose on pinion pre-load so, in the pic above, I am now pressing the pinion out to reduce the shims on the collar and try again.

On the 3rd try, using .058" for the collar shim, I was right at the desired 10 in/lb of pinion drag.

Back to the case...with the bearing puller in place, I quickly realized that the bearings required very little coaxing to get them off. They just about fell off. I will use the Loctite Sleeve Retainer compound with the new bearings.

Bearings are off...ring gear is off...Time to install the Aussie so I have removed the center pin here.

The spider gears in my hand are no longer needed...

The factory sidegears also are not used. The thrust washers both measured .067" thick and they do get re-used. Some people unknowingly leave them out and then the locker does not operate properly.

The first step is to check a tolerance listed in the Aussie assembly manual.

Using feeler gauges, all 4 spots are checked and found in spec. I was able to slip a .014" feeler in there and the spec wants to see between .006" and .016".

The couplers would not go in...

I used a large rat-tail file to remove some material...

...and then it slipped right in.

Line the drive couplers up and insert the 4 pins.

With the pins in place, now it's just a matter of installing the springs.

I find it easiest to line this end up first...

...then tap the other end in with a small screw-driver.

I checked the second tolerance and all was good.

Slip the power pin in place and tap the roll pin and the Aussie is done.

I applied Red Loctite on the new ring gear bolts and 75 ft/lbs of torque.

I used starting fluid to clean the surfaces and applied the sleeve retainer compound. For loose fit bearings, this will "lock" them in place and prevent spun bearings.

With the case in place, I ran a pattern...drive side...looks a little on the deep side.

coast

I tore the diff down and removed .002" off the pinion depth shim...this is much better.

coast.

While I turn the pinion, I rap on both bearing caps numerous times to shake the carrier bearings into an equal tension state. This helps with accurate backlash measurements.

Markings on the ring gear to help identify these particular ring and pinions...

My notes during the install...

Done :)