5.71 US GEAR install
(29 low res pics loading)
FEB 4 2005
Buddy needed to keep his daily driver
running so I found a good spare 3rd
laying around, a master install kit
with Timken bearings, solid collar,
and a new 571 US GEAR ring/pinion.
The first step is to teardown and clean
the old 3rd....mark and remove the carrier
bearing caps. Remove the carrier. Removing
the carrier bearings is quite simple with
the right kind of puller. This puller is
absolutely the best for speed and simplicity.
I'm using a chisel/hammer to tap off the ring gear.
I quickly ran a file around the ring gear
surface to remove any highspots/burrs. This
one was very smooth.
The brand new carrier bearings slipped on
much too easy. Some techs might use a prick
punch to crater the surface in an attempt to
make the bearing a tight fit. To make sure
the bearing does not 'spin' I like to use a
sleeve retainer compound. This stuff is over
$20 a bottle but with so many "not so tight"
bearing fits, this stuff is gold.
Time to break down the other half....using an
electric impact made quick work of the 30mm pinion nut.
I might re-use the thick pinion shim so using
the bearing separator, I easily pressed off the
bearing with my 10 ton press (not shown).
Before bolting the ring on, I figure
this is a good time to verify run-out.
I measured less than 1 thou. Good.
Checking run-out in the other
plane.....about 1 micron. ;)
Carefully soft chisel the new races
in place. This larger inner race is
the tough one to get started straight....
edit---Best to stay away from all punches...
use an old race to evenly "pat down" the new race.
Using a punch could result in "oscillating" pinion
preload measurements with the torquw wrench.
Measuring shim stock, I prefer micrometers
(with the ratchet clutch) for the accuracy.
I chose .100" for pinion depth and pressed
on the bearing.....you can see the solid
collar on the bearing and in my hand is
.054" worth of collar shims used to set
pinion pre-load. Past experience with new
bearings has shown this value to get
very close in the ballpark.
Before I take a pinion torque
reading, I soak both bearings
in gear oil. It won't work dry.
Right on the money.....
a nice smooth 10 in/lb.
Now it's time to load the ring gear up.....
never had to "boil" my ring gears....just used
a little common sense and some gentle coaxing.
Toyota ring bolts don't have a history
of falling out like some other Dana axles
but I still always use the blue stuff and
70 ft/lbs of torque.
I have found that anti-seize compound works
outstanding on the carrier bearing adjuster threads.
The screwdriver method will not do the job.....
This is much better. For the final set,
I use a real torque wrench and 88 ft/lbs in this case.
Sometimes I rap the hell out of it
in this general area.....it allows
the bearings to "find their set".
The ZUK finger test......if I can detect
any backlash (left-right motion) then
the carrier bearing pre-load is way too light.
Paint is applied to 3 of the teeth and
resistance is applied to the ring while
the pinion flange is rotated back and
forth. This will give a very clear
pattern impression. Here's the drive side
with .100" shim depth and .006" backlash.
I read this as a little too deep and too
hard on the tow side. I will remove 3 or
4 thou from the depth.....the pattern will
also shift towards the heel a little.
Coast side .100"
A complete teardown is involved in
changing the pinion depth shim.....
Beautiful.....drive side .096" depth
I like to use a little Ultra-Blue RTV.....
I used my electric impact to tighten up
the pinion nut. I was able to get it even
a little tighter with the 3 foot bar shown
here. Not shown but blue Loctite is on the threads.
The final step...to actually document/datecode
the final values on the ring gear. I took my
time with this install (almost 6 hours including
preparation and cleaning). This 571 install is
set very strong. It will run very quiet also. If
something breaks, it won't be the ring and pinion.