Harrop E-Locker Install for Eric's 1997 LX450 |
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(103 BIG pics loading....give it some time) |
JAN 28 2016 |
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Eric had Mike from JustDifferentials send a new master install kit and solid collar. For a Harrop install, just new carrier bearings is the norm.....but Eric figured that as long as I'm in there now is the time to get new pinion bearings and a solid collar . |
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Also received the Harrop e-locker directly from Australia. |
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A tote arrived from Eric... |
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It is well cushioned. |
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A well wrapped open 9.5" with bubble wrap and saran plastic wrap. |
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A quick pre-check of the painted pattern shows the gears are still good. Drive side. |
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Coast side. |
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Original backlash was in the neighborhood of .005~.008" |
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Everything is layed out and organized....don't get over-excited like I did because there were no paper instructions supplied. More on that in a few pictures. |
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First task....removing the ring gear for re-use. Remove the 12 ring bolts/nuts and take the cross-pin out. |
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Engravings on the Harrop. |
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Nicely machined. |
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The bracket that was included with the Harrop shown located in place over the locker tabs. |
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On to business, the original ring is bolted in place with 81 ft/lb on the 12 ring bolts/nuts. |
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New bearings from the master kit are pressed on the locker journals. My younger sister painted that kitty portrait herself. |
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Ring and carrier bearings are on.....nothing more to do with this piece of the puzzle. |
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The locker stuff is layed out....at the time, I was thinking how the heck could they forget the instructions. Actually, they included an extra "front locker" switch toggle cover as shown....no front locker planned in this rig yet. |
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That's where the instructions are.....ok. This is the harness piece that gets spliced into the 2 e-locker wires and routes up to the dash. |
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Instructions from their website.... harrop.com.au/install/elocker.pdf Also available from my server Harrop Instructions |
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Conduit that was supplied. |
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The other part of the wiring harness. |
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Rear cover snaps in place nicely and makes for a good quality toggle switch. |
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This supplied bracket goes here and slides into the 2 tabs from the Harrop. |
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Cap goes in loosely in place.... |
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A little bit of jiggling helps the bracket go smoothly in place..... |
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....but if I can do then anybody can do it. |
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That one stubborn tab will drop in place if you lift the Harrop case up for a moment. |
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Page 6 step 21 of the online instructions talks of an approximate 2mm of radial freeplay for the anti-rotation tabs. See those 2 welds on the tab? I did not want to stress them in any way so light taps to the bracket allowed me to get the 2mm of play. |
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Checking radial freeplay here.... |
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A light tap right here allows for plenty of play. |
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Light taps to persuade the soft steel bracket to move just a little. |
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Ready for drilling the hole for this pass-thru grommet. |
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This is the spot I chose. |
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Page 6 of the instructions talks of a 29/64 drill bit (.453") |
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Hole is drilled. |
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Time to put the solid collar and new pinion bearings in. This is normally not done on a basic Harrop Install. |
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Flange was a tight fit. |
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Push the pinion out. |
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New large inner race is to be tapped/pressed in. The trick is to get it started straight and then it will fall in the hole with gentle words. |
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Success....almost down all the way. |
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Using an old race, the final taps will seat it the remaining few millimeters. |
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Verified fully down. |
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The outer one is much easier. |
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Fully seated. |
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This bearing separator will remove the old pinion bearing..... |
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....with the help of the 12 ton Harbor Freight press. |
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The new bearing will be pressed on with the oem .051" shim. |
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The tubular widget I made up works superbly for this job. |
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The collar measured 2.090" and with the addition of .0465" worth of shims should put me close to the target. |
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Nope....no preload at all. |
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It's good to have a broad selection of collar shims. On try #2, I reduced the thickness of the shim by .003" and that did the trick. |
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Last chance to lube up the bearings for smooth readings. |
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The new seal is packed with grease around the garter spring to prevent it from popping off from shock waves caused by the hammer. |
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Often, I use aluminum anti-seize when I anticipate that I will be really cranking down on the nut. |
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I use the electric impact to tighten it down 90%....then I break out the cheater bar for the final tweaking. |
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8 inch/lb.....I can get the pre-load higher by using a cheater bar. |
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That's a 150 ft/lb rated typical pendulum style torque wrench. Attached is a doubler that allows for 300 ft/lb. |
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Even with the anti-seize, I did manage to reach 300 ft/lb and the preload is right at 10 maybe a smidge more. |
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DING. |
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With the pinion end complete, now the final assembly can happen. |
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Now the rubber grommet will be pulled all the way thru....just not right now. |
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I found an easy way to get the bracket in....install bracket first like shown into the 2 tabs THEN slide the bearing cap into place. |
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Drop the 2 long bolts in place. Snug the bolts down and make sure the threads are "in sync" as shown in the pic below. |
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The adjusting wheel should start pretty easy. |
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The other side is business as usual. The wheel is threaded FIRST then the cap is dropped in place. |
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Use the handle side of the hammer and if it goes down with a nice, solid snap noise then all is good. |
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Both of the adjuster wheels turn smoothly with just finger power. |
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83 ft/lb on the 4 bolts per the factory repair manual. |
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The play of those tabs is verified as good. |
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Backlash and carrier bearing preload are both guided into the desired region. Turn the pinion and sharp whacks in the 4 regions to equalize bearing tensions. |
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While laying on my back, I can measure the total preload of turning both the pinion bearings and carrier bearings.....I measured a start torque of about 20 in/lb. I already measured the pinion pre-load (PPL) before and it was 10......this means the other 10 must be the carrier bearing pre-load (CBPL). |
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Backlash is checked on every other tooth here and recorded. Looking in the diff, you can see that I still have to pull the rubber grommet thru. |
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Takes a little work to coax that grommet thru. |
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Push really hard and sometimes cheat a little with the smooth end of a screwdriver....and it does go in 100%. |
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On the outside, there will be about 1/4" sticking out. It took some work to do it so be prepared.... and try not to tear the rubber. |
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On the 2 lockdown tab bolts, 10 ft/lb and maybe a touch more. |
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Nice drive pattern |
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Excellent coast. |
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Drive....reverse painted. |
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Now to test the electric locker. Place axle stub in and it spins the sidegear freely indicating "open diff" operation. |
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Now to find a source of 12v..... |
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These electric lockers have no polarity so there is no hooking them up backwards and smoking something....Just hook them up and it will work. |
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I applied 12v.... |
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As the ring gear is rotated, the pin was now allowed to retract as shown above. |
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The locker is now locked. |
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Remove the 12v and the pin snapped back into place. |
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Notes taken for Erics' records... |
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Packing it back up for the trip to CA. |
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Who else wants one of these Harrops installed? Koyo carrier bearings are already included in the box. Contact Ward Harris (National importer/authorized dealer for Harrop) at 1-800-224-7801 or email info@cruiserbrothers.com |