Harrop E-Locker Install for Eric's 1997 LX450
(103 BIG pics loading....give it some time)
JAN 28 2016

Eric had Mike from JustDifferentials send a new master install kit and solid collar.
For a Harrop install, just new carrier bearings is the norm.....but Eric figured that as long as I'm
in there now is the time to get new pinion bearings and a solid collar .

Also received the Harrop e-locker directly from Australia.

A tote arrived from Eric...

It is well cushioned.

A well wrapped open 9.5" with bubble wrap and saran plastic wrap.

A quick pre-check of the painted pattern shows the gears are still good. Drive side.

Coast side.

Original backlash was in the neighborhood of .005~.008"

Everything is layed out and organized....don't get over-excited like I did because there were no paper
instructions supplied. More on that in a few pictures.

First task....removing the ring gear for re-use. Remove the 12 ring bolts/nuts and take the cross-pin out.

Engravings on the Harrop.

Nicely machined.


The bracket that was included with the Harrop shown located in place over the locker tabs.

On to business, the original ring is bolted in place with 81 ft/lb on the 12 ring bolts/nuts.

New bearings from the master kit are pressed on the locker journals.
My younger sister painted that kitty portrait herself.

Ring and carrier bearings are on.....nothing more to do with this piece of the puzzle.

The locker stuff is layed out....at the time, I was thinking how the heck could they forget the instructions.
Actually, they included an extra "front locker" switch toggle cover as shown....no front locker
planned in this rig yet.


That's where the instructions are.....ok.
This is the harness piece that gets spliced into the 2 e-locker wires and routes up to the dash.

Instructions from their website.... harrop.com.au/install/elocker.pdf

Also available from my server Harrop Instructions

Conduit that was supplied.

The other part of the wiring harness.



Rear cover snaps in place nicely and makes for a good quality toggle switch.

This supplied bracket goes here and slides into the 2 tabs from the Harrop.

Cap goes in loosely in place....

A little bit of jiggling helps the bracket go smoothly in place.....

....but if I can do then anybody can do it.

That one stubborn tab will drop in place if you lift the Harrop case up for a moment.

Page 6 step 21 of the online instructions talks of an approximate 2mm of radial freeplay for the
anti-rotation tabs. See those 2 welds on the tab? I did not want to stress them in any way so
light taps to the bracket allowed me to get the 2mm of play.

Checking radial freeplay here....


A light tap right here allows for plenty of play.

Light taps to persuade the soft steel bracket to move just a little.

Ready for drilling the hole for this pass-thru grommet.

This is the spot I chose.

Page 6 of the instructions talks of a 29/64 drill bit (.453")

Hole is drilled.


Time to put the solid collar and new pinion bearings in. This is normally
not done on a basic Harrop Install.

Flange was a tight fit.

Push the pinion out.

New large inner race is to be tapped/pressed in. The trick is to get it started straight and then it
will fall in the hole with gentle words.

Success....almost down all the way.

Using an old race, the final taps will seat it the remaining few millimeters.

Verified fully down.

The outer one is much easier.

Fully seated.

This bearing separator will remove the old pinion bearing.....

....with the help of the 12 ton Harbor Freight press.

The new bearing will be pressed on with the oem .051" shim.

The tubular widget I made up works superbly for this job.

The collar measured 2.090" and with the addition of .0465" worth of shims should put me close to the target.

Nope....no preload at all.

It's good to have a broad selection of collar shims. On try #2, I reduced the thickness of the shim
by .003" and that did the trick.

Last chance to lube up the bearings for smooth readings.

The new seal is packed with grease around the garter spring to prevent it from popping off from
shock waves caused by the hammer.


Often, I use aluminum anti-seize when I anticipate that I will be really cranking down on the nut.

I use the electric impact to tighten it down 90%....then I break out the cheater bar for
the final tweaking.

8 inch/lb.....I can get the pre-load higher by using a cheater bar.

That's a 150 ft/lb rated typical pendulum style torque wrench. Attached is a doubler that allows for 300 ft/lb.

Even with the anti-seize, I did manage to reach 300 ft/lb and the preload is right at 10 maybe a smidge more.


With the pinion end complete, now the final assembly can happen.

Now the rubber grommet will be pulled all the way thru....just not right now.

I found an easy way to get the bracket in....install bracket first like shown into the 2 tabs THEN slide
the bearing cap into place.

Drop the 2 long bolts in place. Snug the bolts down and make sure the threads are "in sync" as
shown in the pic below.


The adjusting wheel should start pretty easy.

The other side is business as usual. The wheel is threaded FIRST then the cap is dropped in place.

Use the handle side of the hammer and if it goes down with a nice, solid snap noise then all is good.

Both of the adjuster wheels turn smoothly with just finger power.

83 ft/lb on the 4 bolts per the factory repair manual.

The play of those tabs is verified as good.

Backlash and carrier bearing preload are both guided into the desired region. Turn the pinion
and sharp whacks in the 4 regions to equalize bearing tensions.

While laying on my back, I can measure the total preload of turning both the pinion bearings
and carrier bearings.....I measured a start torque of about 20 in/lb. I already measured
the pinion pre-load (PPL) before and it was 10......this means the other 10 must be
the carrier bearing pre-load (CBPL).

Backlash is checked on every other tooth here and recorded. Looking in the diff, you can see that
I still have to pull the rubber grommet thru.

Takes a little work to coax that grommet thru.

Push really hard and sometimes cheat a little with the smooth end of a screwdriver....and it does go in 100%.

On the outside, there will be about 1/4" sticking out. It took some work to do it so be prepared....
and try not to tear the rubber.

On the 2 lockdown tab bolts, 10 ft/lb and maybe a touch more.

Nice drive pattern

Excellent coast.

Drive....reverse painted.

Now to test the electric locker. Place axle stub in and it spins the sidegear freely
indicating "open diff" operation.

Now to find a source of 12v.....

These electric lockers have no polarity so there is no hooking them up backwards and smoking
something....Just hook them up and it will work.



I applied 12v....

As the ring gear is rotated, the pin was now allowed to retract as shown above.

The locker is now locked.

Remove the 12v and the pin snapped back into place.



Notes taken for Erics' records...

Packing it back up for the trip to CA.


Who else wants one of these Harrops installed?

Koyo carrier bearings are already included in the box.

Contact Ward Harris (National importer/authorized dealer for Harrop) at 1-800-224-7801
or email info@cruiserbrothers.com