..............Just bought the needle bearing online.., part # 90364-33009. The tapered bearing is 90368-50006 and probably not needed, (God I hope not).
The seal is, 90311-35032. I paid 41 bucks for the bearing on toyotaparts.com . $10 for the seal. I'd like to know more about this other persons adventure.
Might not even have to drop the diff if the method of pulling through the case works.
Yes he is emailing me now. And I think the 91 would be the machined bearing, probably not the same diff. I plan to use the destroy method... (cross fingers).
Thanks for all the tips. I can't imagine what the carnage on the needle bearing is now like since there is enough play to make me think it's pretty sloppy. I wonder
if the play comes from a worn axle itself? We will see.
Wanted to tell you I succeeded with the bearing replacement. Thank you for your added info. It was really key to mount my plan and it did not take me
very long, actually a simple procedure. I decided to pick up a pilot bearing tool-set at Harbor Freight. It was 60 bucks. All other tools I had. Basically, I
pulled the cv axles as anyone would do to change them, (which I did since one leaked and the vibration side one was a bit sloppy). Next, while leaving everything
in place, I pried the cv axle flange off. The largest pilot bearing tool fit in loosely and I expanded it to almost it's full capability in the bearing.
The slide hammer puller only would fit with some adjustments and removal of an end piece. It left about 3/4 inch in which I was able to pull the bearing.
Tapped the new one in and replaced the stock flange. The sad part is that it only reduced the wobble about 50%. I assume since it rides on the flange shaft
itself that in order to get a snug fit again you would also have to replace the flange assembly. (I found one for about 80bucks but did not purchase it).
Probably should have.
There are some important adjustments to be able to do this job without removing the 3rd but it's possible. 2 floor jacks did the trick. I would say
that this problem is one that plagues many vehicles of this type and am a bit perplexed that no one anywhere on the net has data to replacing this. Would
be a great pleaser to many a T-100 owner I think.
The vibration is almost undetectable, however, I have not taken it out to test it in 4wheel at higher speeds. I believe that the vibration, being
harmonic, is a product of 3 things taking place at one time. One of which was the over wobbling of that cv axle flange on the needle bearing. (which had
almost no detectable wear).
The other being an older cv axle (140K miles), although still good, was stiffer and had some play. This caused the cv axle itself to wobble even in
the hub, which is another needle bearing. The new cv axles went in with a tighter fit and the play was all but gone at the hub so I believe they must had
some wear on the part of the cv axle that rides on the needle bearing in the hub. (when I saw the other needle bearing in the hub I was sick, thinking it
was the real problem all along. More difficult to replace, but it does not appear to have been an issue)
3rdly, there was very little grease in the cv axle shaft that goes into the hub. Just enough but only on the bearing. I stuffed the shaft full
of lithium based white grease and probably should redo that once in a while. (However, I put WARN hubs on when I bought it at 120K miles so the use is less).
After all this I still wish for more info. I really want to know about the wobble of that cv axle flange in the 3rd. It still is loose a bit. I wonder
if that will cause premature wear in the cv axle while driving at higher speeds. I wonder if I could had found a measurement to see if the wear on that
flange shaft was too much. (it really did not look like it had any, although I did not check it.) There is at times( now different times) a bit of a
vibration that seems to come and go at random will. Maybe something else was vibrating a bit. But barely notice it. And that's with the hubs disengaged
so I should not be getting any from the cvs. It does not feel like driveline. Ball joints are all tight. Can't figure it out.
I took a pic of the job but it's not a good one. I did not document it well since I was covered in grease and oil, not willing to touch the camera.
I do not have a good place to wash up so I get dirty until complete. One bad thing about the job was I thought I would have to pop off the steering linkage
ball joint so I put a puller on it and tried for an hour, damaging the seal of that ball joint, then I gave up and found I could barely do it with out removal
of the hub and brakes. So it will go bad soon. This job really needs a helper at 2 key points. The cv axle removal and replace. With the lower ball joint
disconnected you can tilt the hub assembly quite a bit but its hard to do alone.
Anyway, thanks for all your help. I'd be happy to share info and even help someone else out with this issue. And it's good to know the 500 buck
minimum they were going to charge me to remove and fix the issue was thwarted. Issue 90% solved.
Please do add this as info. I would make sure to reference the T-100 that it was done on. Reason for that is the other models might require a
bit of a different approach. I'm not sure there is enough room to complete this job without removing the steering knuckle/hub. Since I had 2 jacks,
after removing the lower ball joint and cv axle, I was able to pull the steering knuckle out still leaving attached the steering linkage and brake line,
jack up the upper a arm from the bottom of the ball joint just enough to make room for the puller from Harbour Freight. (barely). My guess is that on
other vehicles you might not get that space to work with. Also, the grease used by Toyota in the hub needle bearing is that thick, semi flesh colored
clearish kind. I love that grease but can not find it anymore. The grease I replaced in the hub is much thinner. I feel that if you live in a hot
climate it will all run out in short time causing sloppiness issues. I have to wait til summer to know. I'd use the thick stuff if I had it.