Tanner's Hi-Pinion Front gets Nitro 488 and ARB RD132 |
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(57 BIG pics loading) |
JULY 7 2016 |
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Tanner's front hi-pinion in his 1996 TLC is getting Nitro 488s, RD132, master install kit with a .....new 29 spline flange and a solid collar. |
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Front 3rd is secured to fixture. |
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Open carrier is removed. |
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Pinion end is now dis-assembled. Taking the flange off. |
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Pressing the pinion out. |
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Seal is removed. |
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Oops...flash did not go off. |
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Much better...the trick is to remove the old outer pinion race without damaging or destroying the oil retainer next to it. |
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A large washer cut in two and a plastic bottle cap work amazingly well to do just that. |
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Oil retainer undamaged. |
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New race to be inserted. |
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Tap tap and this end done. |
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Seated 100% new race. |
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The large inner race can be hammered in with a chisel but more "indirectly" than the way I used to do it in the distant past. New races and direct contact with a chisel is to be avoided. |
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Big race is 100% seated. |
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Now onto the pinion itself....starter shim will be a .0775" oem shim. |
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Press on the new Koyo bearing and shim with the 12 ton HarborFreight press. |
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Impact down the pinion nut til some resistance is felt but not so much that the flange becomes hard to turn. This is only for a paint test so being exact is not critical. |
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Now onto the ARB carrier end of things...surfaces are checked for burrs/high spots and all appears fine. |
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I was able to not have to use the press and tap the Nitro 488 ring down just fine here. |
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Carrier bearings were pressed on and it was very convenient to also tighten the 10 ring gear bolts to the specified 70 ft/lb. |
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This end is done. |
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ARB is loaded in place and the wheel adjusters are carefully meshed in the threads. |
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The 2 bearing caps are snugged up and backlash is set with a small amount of actual bearing preload. |
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Paint test reveals that the perfect slight deep condition that I like has been achieved. Favors the root and slight toe. |
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It's an added plus when the coast has the pattern favoring the toe also. The drive and coast patterns are "synchronized" and that does not happen all the time. |
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Drive, reverse painted. Looks great. |
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Coast, reverse painted. Nice. |
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Drive....comet is in the middle. |
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I noted the pinion was less than .020" from the ARB just before I removed it so now is a good time to use the flapper on it. |
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A flapper wheel takes off the material with minimal heat. |
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A high speed wire wheel cleans up the burrs on the edges. |
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A snapshot of the ARB instructions on where to drill the hole. |
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The 7/16" hole I drilled ended up in nearly the same spot. |
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The solid collar can now be installed. Took only 3 times to get the shimming right. |
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A high speed die grinder opened up the splashguard hole enough to slip over the larger 29 spline pinion shaft. |
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The die grinder operation only takes about 5 minutes or possibly less. |
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The rubberized seal is check for fit....plenty good on the tightness. |
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Seal is tapped in place....garter spring is verified to not have popped loose, and gear oil is applied on all related surfaces. |
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Pinion nut is tightened until the target 10 in/lb start torque is reached. |
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DING!! and pinion end is now complete. |
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ARB case is now loaded in place... |
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The 4 bearing cap bolts are torqued to 70 ft/lb. |
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Backlash is adjusted a pattern is painted and, as seen, looks excellent. |
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The hole is drilled and tapped...copper tube is form fitted. |
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Excess is cut off. |
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The o-rings and seal housing assembly have just been installed. 10 ft/lb on the 12mm bolt. |
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A tiny Pepboys compressor and a 12v battery are used to run an arb test. |
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Routing is good. |
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The copper line is very soft so it can be tweaked to clear the corners to one's own preference. |
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Final notes. |