Want the coils with no welding or bolting?
(3 pics loading)
NOV 15 2009

I like what Cliff did and here's a copy/paste from his email that says it all....

"First off let me say thanks for sharing your coil spring mod info on your website. I did this to my 84 4runner and it really worked well. Being pinched for time before a trip and having no welder, I decided to try the ultimate shortcut, I simply put the lower part of the spring over the rubber bump stop, and cut off the upper metal stop about an inch from the frame and inserted the top of the spring there. I used the 14" springs, had to compress them about 3" with the axle at full droop, so I figure they aren't going anywhere. Just returned from 2 weeks of paragliding and 4 wheeling over some pretty rough stuff in the Owens Valley and Death Valley, everything held up just fine, the truck is nice and level, and the ride is vastly better. I have included a couple of pictures, feel free to use them on your site if you like. Thanks again, Cliff"

I already have a link about where to order the coils from but here's a quick generalization of which one to get.... Typically, the saggy Runner (and some pick-ups) will have about 8 or 9 inches from underside of frame to the top of the leafpack (or top of the u-bolt where the coil actually contacts in this case). That means, if you want about 2 inches of lift then the 12inch X 125 pound rated coils will be the best candidate. For a solid 3" then the 14" X 100 pounders will do the job. Shocks can influence the firmness of the ride also. For example, Pro-comps are a very heavy duty shock but they can make the ride 'more firm'. Bilsteins(I use them) are a digressive valved shock and keep the ride the softest possible with excellent control. I don't know about Rancho and the rest...just my personal experiences here.

Ebay link to the 12inch coil... order in lightest rate 125 pounds

Ebay link to the 14inch coil... order in lightest rate 100 pounds

Anybody that does this weldless method please feel free to send me pics and feedback on everything including the coil capture quality and, with your permission, I may add your pics and feedback to this link. As seen above, Cliff cut off most of the mount but I wonder if another inch or 2 was retained, if the coil would slide in even better...and if not, if a couple of well placed hammer blows would help. Just thinking out load.

update--- 3-26-2011 ---- It turns out Cliff did the best thing possible and that was to cut the upper steel stopper to about 1". This allowed the coil to fit in perfectly with no torching or bending of the metal. The coil will never fall out if some checks are done first to verify exactly how much air space is there with the wheels both hanging in free space.....just jack the rear of the Runner/truck off the ground and measure the distance....if it's less than 12 then the 12" coils are safe....and nobody that has a stock set-up can loosen up the longer 14 coils...those are always good insurance against loosening up. Also, leaving too much of the steel stopper in place will cause the coils to rub against the sides during articulation and cause some "coil noises" so, by all means, cut that stopper short. ZUK